Did you know: In Cameroon, oranges are actually green!!! How’s that for a misnomer??
--
During my first month in Kribi, I was waiting on the road in attempts to catch a moto-taxi. Since where I live is a bit out of town, my attempts were proving unsuccessful as every passing moto seemed to already have a passenger or cargo (you should see the things people carry on motos! Mattresses, animals, you name it….). As there was another woman next to me, I struck up a conversation. Within five minutes my new friend, Jenny, had called her boyfriend (Phillippe), and I found myself on the back of his moto, heading into town with the two of them. While this was mighty convenient and I should have been stoked to finally have hitched a ride, in all honesty, I was mostly worried.
The thing is, every
time I meet people I am never genuinely sure if they want to be friends with me
because they genuinely like me, or if they see me as a ‘cash cow’ of sorts.
This is hard, because even though I don’t make much money as a volunteer, I am
still better off than so many Cameroonians. And I am not just privileged
money-wise, but also education-wise and even language-wise since as an
Anglophone, I speak arguably the most universally dominant language these days.
Therefore, the whole time I was on the moto with Jenny and Phillippe, I was
thinking “Crap- this is going to cost me
a fortune”.
After visiting their
friend’s stall at the market, taking a small tour of town, and stopping at the
bakery for some beignets (obviously), we returned home. Upon hopping off the
moto I asked “Combien coûte?”, to which Jenny replied “nothing”. After expressing
my intense gratitude, I invited Jenny and Phillippe to join me for a drink
later in thanks. I was elated to have my faith restored in humanity, scolding
myself for having thought the worst in people, and relieved I had at least bought
them beignets when at the bakery.
I continued to hang
out with Jenny and Phillippe throughout the month of August: sunshiney days at
the hotel Jenny works at; beach combing for shells the size of your hand; soccer
in the sand; meals chez-moi etc. After my couple weeks away in the field
workshoppin’, I invited Jenny over for breakfast. After a lovely “brunch” (punctuality is an underrated
trait here), Jenny turned to me and asked me to borrow money for moto fare. Up
until this point, Jenny had never asked me for money, and in all fairness moto fare
is peanuts, around maybe 50 cents Canadian. I asked where she was headed (since
we are neighbours, the moto-fare was not necessary for getting home), and gave
the appropriate amount for the fare. Jenny then replied she needed more for a
return fare as well. Following this awkward exchange, she then hitched a free
ride with my neighbour who lives next door and offered her a ride.
For days following
this exchange, I felt really uncomfortable. I generally have always preferred
to give gifts over money, and wasn’t sure if this meant Jenny viewed our
friendship differently than I did. After
some discussions with other volunteers I was told that this event actually
meant Jenny was comfortable around me and was equivalent for someone back home
asking you to go for coffee. While I was contemplating this, Phillippe dropped
by my place to give me a jacket belonging to Jenny she wanted to give me. I tried to accept the jacket as graciously as
possible (since it is rude to turn down gifts) while feeling like the worst
person ever as I know Jenny could use and likely needs the jacket far more than
I do.
All of this is to
demonstrate some of the struggles I have had meeting people in Kribi. To give
another example, today while walking, a man yelled at me “La blanche…. Hello… I love you!!”. This person was obviously not in
love with me, but was more interested in me because of my colour of my skin. Not my winning personality or sense of
humour (clearly his loss!). But my skin colour is not always an advantage-
during my stint without water in August, I paid my neighbor for use of his
well. He blatantly charged me double what my Cameroonian colleague paid and had
no qualms doing so.
SO my question is- how
do you build lasting friendships when there is such an imbalance in money, privilege
and/or power? And while still
thinking the best in people but not getting taken advantage of? After three
months in Cameroon, this is still a work in progress for me….
Thoughts???
A la prochain! I
promise my next blog post will be mostly pictures to make up for the lack in
this one.
Much love!
- C
The challenges of living abroad are really not about learning how to use the bus, or how to shop at the market. The real challenge is to learn the unspoken norms that are the foundation of a culture. These are things that we take for granted at home, and are difficult to explain when abroad. One day when you are back home you are going to see a foreigner totally confused at what we think is the most basic situation. When it happens you will know exactly what to do!
ReplyDeleteGuyana Greg
Enjoy the jacket! I agree, she needs it more than you do but it's her decision, when you go back to Canada you'll see the jacket and remember her.
ReplyDeleteHave fun!
Salvador Santamaria
Amazing blog, Carley! I dealt with similar challenges when I was living in another country too. I guess the hardest part was the huge amount of inequality generally speaking and in friendships. Like you said, these can be in language, education, opportunity and money. I agree with you about how gift giving makes more sense in friendships than money. I was asked to give friends money and struggled to know what was best to do. Seeing people who I admired, they wouldn't give money to people, but would lend money if they had built a relationship and built trust. For me, I felt a huge weight because of inequality. My mom said that while we can recognize that inequality is unjust, we can't change system of inequality as individuals. No matter how much money I could give to friends who struggle financially, that wouldn't change the situation in a meaningful way. I felt like it was important to acknowledge inequality and that it is unfair. Definitely a challenging position to be in. Hope you enjoy the rest of your time traveling and working in Cameroon!
ReplyDeletePs the post above is from me - Amy M
ReplyDelete